Sunday, March 24, 2013

Both Sides Now

Part of the reason I so wanted to stay in Japan another year was to unravel the mystery of…well, Japan. To claim that, a year and a half later, everything now makes perfect sense would be a whopper of a Pinocchio, but, if nothing else, what I have come to understand is that Japan is a-okay with ambiguity. Where my North American mind craves clarity and is conditioned to choose sides, my Japanese counterparts are very comfortable with contradiction. Here are a few examples:

Getting up ridiculously early on a Sunday to drive to a ryokan* several hours away. Purpose? To relax. Then, after a night of eating, drinking, and merrymaking, dragging yourself from sleep to catch the sunrise while soaking again.

Stripping naked in an onsen change-room full of same-gender strangers, then, in the name of modesty, struggling with a white cloth the size of a tea towel to strategically cover your naughty bits.

Elementary school students sliding, tumbling and rolling around on the classroom floor during breaks between lessons. Junior high school track-and-field students melodramatically collapsing to the ground after a series of ten-second dashes, lying on their backs or curled up in utero-esque positions, panting on the parking lot pavement. Obaasans (grandmothers) and ojiisans (grandfathers) squatting on their heels for the duration of an outdoor event – be it a several hour-long shan-shan performance in the village of Chizu in the heat of an August afternoon or at the 9 P.M. Magical Starlight Parade after a long day of walking around Osaka’s Universal Studios Japan amusement park – so as not to sit on the dirty, dirty (read: spotless) ground. Their children and grandchildren follow suit, of course.  

Eating on the street is considered quite impolite. Drinking alcohol is fine.

After asking my age, locals look at me with wide, round anime eyes, exclaiming, “wakai! So young!” Then, they are equally flabbergasted that I have no husband or children.

To leave home without a packet of tissues is to leave unprepared. To employ said tissues to cover one’s mouth or nose during a sneeze is a strange usage, indeed.

No one bats an eye at the micro minis walking by, but good luck trying to pass a tank top off as anything but suggestive. It’s an undershirt, deshou**, it’s not meant to be seen unless you’re undressing.

The mental tornado of multitasking versus the seemingly endless free time for imagination and monotony. In other words, school and spring break.

My all-in-Japanese Windows 93 dinosaur of a school-assigned laptop versus the multi-lingual 3G SmartPhone I started bringing to the staff room once I had enough work to justify not being able to wait five minutes for Google to load.

The inverse relationship between upbeat, energetic, unflappable work-week Echo and the antisocial, sloth-like, grumpy weekend hermit that friends and neighbours get to associate with on those rare occasions that I seek out or submit to social interactions.






**でしょう is, like many Japanese interjections, an opinion seeking confirmation. It can mean “I think that; I am afraid that; it seems that” as well as “Don’t you think that…?” (meaning that you probably should.)